Printed Advertisments
I will use this post as an ongoing collection of perfume advertisements so then I can begin to categorise them and analyse some for use within the written part of my COP project.
I have split this research post into 2 sections, pre 1960 and post 1960 as I think there is definitely a change in strategy due to The Creative Revolution.
Pre 1960
The majority of these adverts use the bottle as a focal point and all try to sell elegance and maturity.
This advert is interesting because it is beginning to attach experience and possibility to the fragrance rather than just selling it for its material qualities.
This advert focusses more on the model than the bottle and this image quickly signifies to the audience the age of the intended audience. The jacket she is wearing suggests she is successful and growing independent whilst also retaining feminine and glamorous.
Many adverts pre 1960 feature solely the bottle, the problem with this is that there is a distinct lack of audience.
This advert could be targeted towards men or women, there is nothing that gives it away or indicates how it smells.
Post 1960
From these adverts you can see a definite difference in focus, there is much more emphasis on the model in the photograph.
There is much more focus on the target audience with these adverts. They also begin to set a standard for people which didn't exist prior.
This Chanel advert's subheading is 'the modern way to carry spray', which renders any other system old fashioned and out dated.
This advert doesn't beat around the bush when it comes to false promises. Aimed at men, this advert suggests that buying this fragrance is going to physically change you and make you irresistible to women.
This advert speaks to men in a language they understand, it doesn't try to hide the sexual reference, it uses it as it's main selling point. Chanel knows that men buy soap and smells to impress women and so here they are speaking on the audiences level.
This advert is interesting because although the fragrance is for a woman, this advert is aimed at men, prompting them to buy Arpege as a gift.
Vogue 1981
I have retrieved these images from back issues of Vogue, each Vogue magazine has approximately 11 advertisements for different perfumes. I am going to gather a range of adverts from the 80's, 90's, 2000's and now to try and draw some similarities and differences. Also, having access to the month they were published will allow me to research the social, historical and political context that these adverts were published in, to see if that is relevant.
I will write a brief analysis of these adverts and choose some of them to feature in the written element of my COP project.
Without reading the sub heading here you can tell that this is a fragrance for men, the design of the bottle is very un-elegant and structured like a building. The lack of colour indicates that this fragrance represents a dark and mysterious male that is composed and sophisticated. The only other item in the ad is the pair of cufflinks which show that the male will be well dressed and wealthy, or appear wealthy. The advert is distinctly no-frills which indicates a busy man with no time to be wasted. Also, the link between the fragrance and the cufflinks make it seem that the fragrance is just a standard measure- not unnecessary, but essential- and will be applied as casually as fastening shirt cuffs.
This advert is a bit odd, the repetition of the side profile could indicate popularity or a timeless scent. It stands out due to this unique composition. The model has her eyes closed and is unusually close to the perfume bottle as if to be leaning in for a kiss. This advert is aimed at a young, but mature audience, probably single women who maintain an air of mystery and intrigue about themselves.
I also like how the Chanel typeface is used for the product name and it is still recognisable as Chanel despite not saying it.
This is the cover of the 1981 issue of Vogue
It seems relevant that the advert on the rear cover of the magazine seems to reference the front. Both models are blonde with blue eyes and also the colour of the head typeface is very similar to the colour of the perfume bottle. these similarities make it seem as if this perfume embodies 'Vogue' and is a major part of it rather than just an advert inside of it.
Also, interestingly, there is a double page spread that literally spells out why this brand of perfume is good. Something that is not seen at all today. Instead of just a photograph and tagline this advert details the celebrities that like the perfume and the genius of the perfumer himself.
"Oscar de la Renta knows what makes a woman beautiful"
There is definitely some Male Gaze- power over women- business going on here. The perfume bottle is tiny in comparison to the size of Oscar, his expression and posture is very dominant on controlling and the red glow behind him makes him look like the devil, which may or may not be relevant.
On the next spread is a second advert from Oscar, this time aimed at males. This advert is much calmer, due to the more neutral colours and informal almost like Oscar is your mate and is giving you some much needed advice. He claims to understand women which is something all men struggle to do. Also this bottle is about 5 times the size of the female fragrance.
This advert has a certain narrative that the audience will relate to. The woman is on her own gazing out apparently deep in thought and contemplation, the viewer gets the feeling that something is missing from this persons life. Luckily these is a shining star beaming down upon the perfume to suggest that the perfume could fill this void.
This advert tries to illustrate the type of man who should buy this fragrance. From my limited knowledge of early 80's trends and stereotypical groups of people I would say that this is very similar to the gang of characters from Grease which was released three years previously. This denotes that a street wise, young adult with a rebellious but also sympathetic and romantic nature should buy this perfume. The choice of typeface also reinforces this, 'Jules' is written in quite a feminine script but it appears on the back of a leather jacket to give it a tough front.
Vogue May 2000
A lot of Jean Paul Gaultier adverts use the idea of sexuality and gender roles within their imagery.
This advert features an androgynous model that is distinctly larger than the perfume and fills up the majority of the spread. The model seems confident and strong, however this is juxtaposed by the name of the perfume which is 'FRAGILE' written in a typical stamp for packaging fashion. Suggesting a layered personality and revealing certain ideas that can not be deciphered from the image alone.
The perfume bottle also suggests this 'different personality than image denotes', as it is a relatively small figure trapped within a glass, snow globe type surround.
This advert is targeted toward a young female audience who have a tough exterior and are growingly more interested in feminism, but still have a soft side that remains hidden.
This is the second advert from the issue which doesn't feature a model but puts emphasis on the form of the bottle. The structure and colours of the advert reference architecture and design.
This would appeal to a more mature, possibly married, female that wants a clean, unobtrusive fragrance that doesn't make a particular statement about her.
This advert is very different for a Chanel campaign.
The focus is on the model who is Waris Dirie and does human rights work in Somalia. The perfume bottle is obscured from complete sight and seems to be a part of Waris with the top of the lid connecting with her shoulder.
A segment from Media,Culture and Society by Paul Hodkinson identifies this as Post-Feminism:
In contrast to the previous advert this features a much more subdued model that isn't making eye contact with the viewer and is obscured by the perfume bottle. The design of the bottle appears to be quite dominant, so where the previous advert was a fragrance to go with an already existing personality this advert suggests that the fragrance will help you be more confident and dominant.
This advert was spread over three consecutive pages and has a very obvious narrative. The imagery in the advert is overly sexual and the colours convey the same atmosphere as the pictures.
The adverts are simple, but because there are three in a row they are possibly more memorable
Straight after these adverts there are 2 small adverts of this nature that contrast the previous Gucci one. These advert are aimed at a more mature audience, there is nothing sexual about them and the imagery is simply an illustration of the scents of the perfume.
This advert appears to be very futuristic and digital with the name -'Ultraviolet' reinforcing this. Although this does seem quite odd and unrelated to perfume it still helps the advert stand out amongst the other adverts in the magazine.
This is the final advert in the magazine, which is for a mens fragrance. Although it is a fragrance for men the audience is probably for women who would suggest it or buy it for their boyfriends, as I don't think the straight male readership for Vogue will be very high. The bottle represents a solid and strong block, like most fragrances for males and the accompanying advert denotes spontaneity, dominance and submission.
I found whilst scanning the images that, in comparison to the 1981 issue, the adverts represent a much wider, but precise, cross section of women. Each advert seems to play of the previous, there isn't a run of ad's that portray women as quiet and submissive, a feminine advert is followed by an ad featuring an independent and confident women, an ad that features promiscuity is followed by a more reserved and mature advert. It is as if the meaning of the adverts can be emphasised when seen in relation to adverts aimed at a different audience. And if you strongly disapprove or don't feel a connection with one advert then you are more likely to be drawn toward the next.
Vogue June 2004
I think it is amazing how little copy goes on some adverts for perfume, simply by juxtaposing an image with the product lends enough signification to appeal to a certain audience and attach meaning to the product.
There are a lot of adverts that do not seemingly symbolise anything apart from attractiveness and mystery. Due to the fact these adverts are quite docile and muted it can be assumed that the fragrances are not too overpowering and are quite light and fresh.
Whereas adverts like this suggest the fragrance will pack a punch and will definitely get noticed. This advert communicates energy and excitement and is aimed towards a female in her mid to late twenties.
The typography used in these adverts says a lot about the audience it is aimed at, this one for Stella McCartney is very sturdy, balanced and confident whereas the next advert for Chanel is more naive, clumsy and carefree.
Jean Paul Gaultier adverts stand out as being gender and sexually orientated, the message that they are trying to communicate is quite unclear and confusing, but that itself is a message, maybe they are not supposed to be understood but they are supposed to be a bit alternative and unique.
September 1999
A very popular message, especially in America, being attached to perfume here. Celebrate your freedom by buying this perfume.
This is a very safe advert for perfume but in relation to the other more sexual adverts in this issue this stands out and is the obvious choice for any married consumer.
This advert looks very dated, even for 1999, some of the appeal of this advert may be its vintage heritage.
The more promiscuous and sexual advert are generally aimed at a younger and youthful audience.
This fragrance is called Envy which suits Bernay's theory of purchasing commodities to tame unconscious thoughts and desires.
